BUILDING A SKERRY Day 66 - 70
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Offerings to the Spirit of "ET Bugaboo" Days 1 - 5 : Order, Instructions, Clean garage, Glue panel scarfs Days 6 - 10 : Glue outwale sections, Sand scarfs, Measure for frames, Drill wire holes, Sand & taper outwales Days 11 - 15 : Cut gains, More wire holes, Wire Panels, Insert frames Days 16 - 20 : Fix "gap" problem, Glue Mast Scarf, Sprit Scarf, Skeg Halves, and Centerboard Handles, "Tab" Glue Seams Days 21 - 25 : Remove Wires, Glue Seams, Clean up Seams, Shape Stem and Stern Days 26 - 30 : Glassing and coating the exterior Days 31 - 35 : Breast Hooks, Rails Days 36 - 40 : Rails (cont.), Skeg Days 41 - 45: More epoxy, Fiberglass & coat interior Days 46 - 50: Install Seats and Centerboard Box Days 51 - 55: Still doing the Seats and Centerboard Box Day 56: Making it rowable Day 57 - 60: Sanding the fillets, Making Spars, Figuring out the rudder Day 61 - 65: Rudder and Dagger Board Day 66 - 70: Rudder (cont.) Day 70 - 75: Dagger Board Slots, Partner "Adapter", Install Mast Step Day 76 - 80: Sewing the Sail, Adding Lead to Daggerboard, Floorboards Day 81 - 85: Floorboards (cont.) Day 86 - 90: Floorboards (cont.). Foot Braces, Sanding, sanding, sanding,... Day 91 - 95: Finishing Day 96 - 98: ...and more Finishing, Rigging
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Day 66 (9/24/03) 1.5 Hrs: I have been mulling around with some of the other Skerry builders about different ideas for attaching the rudder deployment line to the rudder blade. The trick here is to have something that will hold reliably, but not interfere with the "kick-up" action of the blade. Also, I am a bit concerned that the line holds the rudder down. Therefore, the "kick-up" feature will only work if you know it needs to be up. Hit an unexpected rock and it's useless. What I settled for was to drill a hole from the leading upper edge of the blade (where the line will attach) through to a hole I made through the blade width. The hole from the edge is small enough to thread a #8 eye bolt through, and long enough so that a nut can be threaded via the other hole.
I applied 3M 5200 to the bolt before threading it through. This will help with water resistance and strength. After the eye bolt was installed, I covered the bottom of the large hole with package tape and filled the hole in with "peanut butter" mix.
Day 67 (9/25/03) 1Hr: Tonight I applied the top fillets to the yoke and rudder head. It is important to make sure the yoke is level.
I then attached a bungee deployment line to the rudder. I figure bungee will be more forgiving than rope if I do hit a rock
Day 67 (9/26/03) 2Hr: I couldn't put it off any longer. I had to sand the fillets sometime. However, I put together a little tool that made this work so much easier. I believe I found this tip on the CLC forum and it is a great one. I happened to have an old hose laying around so I cut off about a 6" section. I then cut a 1x4 to 5" in length. I drilled 3 1/4" holes in one side of the hose and 1/16" holes on the opposite side of each 1/4" hole. using the 1/4" as an entry for my screwdriver, I attached the hose to one edge of the wood block using wood screws through the 1/16" holes. I then used this as a sanding block for the fillets. Honestly, I figure this saved me hours.
Day 68 (9/27/03) 2Hr: This morning, I applied the fillet to the underside of the yoke/rudder attachment. Then I went to the Duxbury Bay Classic Boat Show.
When I got home, I attached the rudder blade to the rudder assembly and ran the deployment line through. I am now having serious doubts whether the bungee will work... I think a rope will be needed.
Finally, I attached the rudder to the hull and attached the tiller to the yoke.
Day 69 (10/01/03) .5 Hr: Those who have launched their Skerry's say that they have experienced the rudder popping off. Following their lead, I drilled a 3/8" hoie in one of the pintles to receive a 3/8" fastpin. The 2" fastpin is too long and inhibits the full range of the rudder, so I will replace it with a 1" fastpin.
Day 70 (10/14/03) 1 Hr: Tonight I finally cut the slot in the bottom panel for the daggerboard. Man, that was nerve racking. The slot needed to be 1/2" wide, so I started by drilling a few 3/8" holes, then used my saber saw to cut a 1/4" slot. I then used my dremel with a 1/4" sanding barrel attachment to gradually widen the slot to 1/2".
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