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A
Week Under the Stars - Paddling/Camping the Islands of
Maine
A
Collaborative Report
*
CLICK IMAGES TO ENLARGE
TUESDAY
After
a tasty breakfast of veggie omelets and Canadian bacon, we took to the
water once more. This
time, the plan was to explore the islands to the west.
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ROUTE INFO - 9.43 miles |
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| - Start at Hells Half-Acre
- West side of Devil Island
- East side of Coombs Island
- East side of Ram Island
- Round east side of McGlathery Island (break)
- East side of Round Island
- East side of Wreck Island (short hike and lunch)
- East side of St. Helena Island
- East side of Green Island
- Stonington Harbor
- North side of Russ Island
- North side of Camp Island
- End at Hells Half-Acre
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As we were
preparing to round
Coombs
Island
, a gorgeous gaff-rigged schooner appeared from behind the rocks.
The camera’s came out and the next 10 minutes were spent
admiring this tradional-styled vessel.
We would run into this and other schooners throughout the week.
At the west side
of
McGlathery
Island
(also referred to as “McGillicuddy” and “That Irish Island” by
our absentminded crew), we stopped for a break in a small cove.
Here, we stretched our legs and did a little exploring before
returning to the water and the South side of the island where we
played in the swells and low surf.
On
Round
Island
, we took another brief rest on a crushed-shell spit… just long
enough for Steven to take a quick dip.
Then, we continued to
Wreck
Island
where we explored the island and had lunch.
[Nelson]
“The hike on
Wreck
Island
was a nice change of pace and
we had a beach of soft pulverized shells to land on which was always
welcome. We hiked to the top a
high point
and climbed up on a huge
boulder for an unbelievable panoramic view of the surrounding islands.
Doug thought there might be another hill or ridge somewhere on the
island so he set off to find it and we all followed.
The pathways through the wooded areas were dark and eerie in many
places. Fallen trees were everywhere with their roots exposed looking
a lot like huge spiders. Speaking of spiders, they were just about
everywhere we went. On
Wreck
Island
, Doug got bit by one that took
him by surprise but he never gave it another thought and forged on.
The best part of this island was lunch. Actually food was almost
always a highlight of the day especially for John who often reminded
me of the dog under the table looking for a handout from the kids, and
he always managing to finish off what no one else had room for... and
then some). For lunch Doug made a corn, black bean, diced tomatoes and
onion wrap. It was absolutely delicious but extremely messy and I
ended up wearing the juice it produced from the very first bite.
Needless to say everyone else ate theirs at the waters edge and stayed
clean. The area where we had lunch was a small area of smooth ,
noticeably clean rocks at the water's edge with a place for everyone
to sit. Chip picked out a spot that he called the couch... (now, if
only he had a plasma TV to watch the Patriots game on).
This was a great spot and a great lunch.”
 Consistent with
our pre-determined plan (somewhat influenced by our diminishing beer
supply) our next port-of-call was the
village
of
Stonington
. With a stiff wind out of
the Southwest, we experienced significant following seas on the
crossings between
St. Helena
Island
and
Stonington
Harbor
. However, we were
rewarded for our efforts with seal sightings and ice cream... That is,
Doug and John were rewarded with ice cream.
Apparently, the rest of us missed the offer as we were clinging
to a granite quay and their boats while they went for supplies.
[Steven]
“It’s doubtful Doug
would have intentionally neglected the rest of the group from a frozen
treat. I suspect that it
just slipped his mind… the first symptom of having to drink sub-par
coffee all week”
[Nelson]
“I was looking forward
to going to
Stonington
. If you use your imagination,
paddling to a populated place you've never been before sort of feels
like you're on a voyage to another country. We had a downwind ride
into
Stonington
Harbor
then had trouble finding a
place to land. No beaches and nothing that looked much like a public
landing. We followed Doug as he paddled
under one of the town piers
and around to the right before becoming dead ended at a quay wall that
rose 10 feet above us. By the time I reached the wall Doug was already
out of his boat and climbing the latticework ladder that was affixed
to the wall. A number of on looking tourists were very impressed with
this feat. Chip was charged with keeping Doug's boat from being tossed
around and I rafted up with him while we waited for Doug to find out
if there were any official landing spots.
The next thing I know John paddles up to the wall and is climbing the
ladder as well. Doug found out that there was one semi-public landing
spot but since the two of them were already up there they might as
well just take care of the beer run and we'd paddle back to camp. So
much for great voyages to other countries but at least we had a case
of beer to drown our pathetic sorrows in.”
[John]
“I saw that ice cream stand,
and there was no way I was going to stay in my boat, and wait for Doug
to run to the store for beer. He kept trying to convince me to wait in
my kayak, and not climb up the rickety old ladder; but
then I think he
saw the look of determination in my eyes, and he new better than to
wrangle with me when I had food on my mind. Or so I'd like to think.
My favorite part of this whole experience is climbing to nearly the
top of the ladder, and finding a smallish tourist with his hand
extended, his intention to be kind and give me a hand. I had to
refuse, knowing if I had grabed hold and pulled, the poor guy probably
would have ended up in Nelson's lap down below. Not a great memory to
have of your trip to
Maine
, to end up in Nelson's lap.
I seriously would have gotten ice cream for the ingrats, but they
refused. I had to enjoy the ice cream by myself. In retaliation, they
made me ask the score of the pats game, and I had to explain to some
old Mainer, we had been roughing it, out in the wilderness, brave
souls that we were. "Didn't you bring a radio with you?"
Didn't think of that sir…”
Back at camp,
another Schooner screamed past our island on a close haul and found
anchorage for the night on the leeward side of
Camp
Island
. The idea of paddling
over to see what was on the menu for dinner came up more than once.
As we watched, a small sprit-rigged craft was lowered and some
of the crew attempted to sail around the bay.
However, they appeared to be having trouble in the heavy winds.
Nelson requested
the opportunity to make dinner this particular evening, so Doug wisely
assigned him the task of making pasta (the rest of us would have
revolted if anyone but Doug were to attempt making pizza).
Nelson did a fine job, and we were soon reclining under the
circus fly, feeling content with full bellies.
[Chip]
“This was one of the better days for me. I slept very well the night
before. Great breakfast. Got my PEARLZ taken care of before we
launched for the day. Seeing the ships tool around the islands was an
awesome sight. The hike on
Wreck
Island
was a nice break before lunch.
The
Island
looked like a fun place for a
kid to play.
Lot
's of nooks and crannies to hide
in. Remnants of previous storms were seen as fallen and uprooted trees
on the island.
We headed over to
Stonington
to get some supplies. We
couldn't land so Doug and John climbed up onto a pier while we took
care of their boats. We had many onlookers checking us out as we
floated there waiting for Doug and John to get back. We finally found
out that the Pats had lost on Sunday night. Good game to miss.”
[Steven]
“Shortly after
returning to camp, I found a comfortable spot on the South side of the
island (where I was protected from the wind) and laid down on the
crushed-shell beach to pick-up my reading.
I was eventually joined by the others and pre-dinner librations
soon were on-hand. As I
laid there, listening to the conversation with a few swigs of
Cognac
running through my system, I
found myself enthralled with the crushed shells I was running through
my fingers. I thought,
“I need to bring some of this home… this is therapeutic.
That
night, I chose to bring my pad and sleeping bag out to the rocks and
sleep under the stars. I
read for a little while, but was too distracted by the show Mom Nature
was putting on, and soon put down my book to just stare up at the sky.
I lost total track of time and was shocked when I discovered an
hour and a half had passed in what felt like 15 minutes.
I was reluctant to close my eyes, but sleep must have snuck up
on me since I woke at some point in the night to a mosquito buzzing in
my ear and my sleeping pad nowhere in my vicinity.
I retired to my tent and now stared at the ceiling listening to
the sounds of the night (i.e. some serious snoring from my companions)
WEDNESDAY
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