A Week Under the Stars - Paddling/Camping the Islands of Maine

 A Collaborative Report

 * CLICK IMAGES TO ENLARGE

 WEDNESDAY

The plan for Wednesday was to move camp further from the mainland to Wheat Island , just off Isle au Haut .  After breakfasting on bagels Doug, Ron, and Steven shot back over to Old Ocean Quarry to drop off trash and unneeded gear, and to replenish our water supply.

One would think that we would be getting better at storing our gear in the boats as the week went on, we gained experience, and the food supply diminished.  For some, reason, this never seemed to be the case.  However, every item finally found a spot and we began the journey to Wheat Island … our new home for the remainder of the week.

[Insert GPS Log and trip description – 4.5mi]  

ROUTE INFO - 4.5 miles

- Start at Hells Half-Acre

- Round east side of Devil Island

- Split Spruce and Buckle

- West side of Ram Island

- Between Round and McGlatherly Islands

- East of Bills Island

- End at Wheat Island

 

The crossing from McGlathery, past Bills Island , and over to Wheat was in 2-3 foot chop coming at us from 10:00 . With loaded down boats and decks often awash, this leg required more attention than any of those previously on the trip.  The landing on Wheat was also a little trickier than that of Hell’s Half-Acre, since it was on a granite shelf that sloped significantly.

After camp was set and a brief lunch had, we all went about relaxing in our own ways.  Some took naps, others read, while others explored the island.  A feeding seal stopped long enough to check out the motley crew on the island.  At low tide, a crushed-shell spit was revealed and we were able to cross over to another small neighboring island of granite and shells.  About this time, we were afforded another beautiful sunset that, as viewed from the smaller neighboring island, lit up our island with tints of gold and orange.

Dinner of Empanada’s was followed by another night of star-gazing on the rocks, after-dinner drinks, and rounds of, “If you were stranded on a desert island…” (ex. which one album would you want to have with you?).  Nelson broke out his radio and, although the choice of stations was few, was able to find some great classic rock.  The volume was kept just audible so as to enhance the mood without overshadowing the sounds of the night.

[Chip]  “This was by far the toughest paddle of the trip for me even though it was the shortest. The loaded boat and heavy winds made this one a bear. The crossing from McGlathery's to Wheat was the killer. The pain left right after Doug brought out the Bushmills to celebrate another island conquered. Good stuff.


I liked the set up at Hell's Half Acre but Wheat was more remote and had some nice features. There was a little beach area that the poly boaters were not allowed to use. We had to land on the rocks. The beach was reserved for the fiberglass "Mary" boaters. There was a cool spit that opened up access to a small island at low tide. Awesome rock formations and shell beach.  We all found a spot to pitch our tents and we were back in business. Each stop got a little easier as far as setting up camp.


The empanada's for dinner really hit the spot and soon became a hot topic of conversation. There seem to be some extra filling left over. Some had empanada quesadillas the next day as well as Empanada roll-ups. OK, it was mostly John. He even carried around the bowl with the Empanada filling in his boat.


Dish washing on Wheat was a real chore. It seems as though each meal was at low tide and we would have to walk 1/2 a mile to find a spot to get to the water and find some scrubbing material. (sand and broken shells). I know, shut up and scrub.
I had another good night sleep after star gazing, music and a couple of beers.”  

 

[Nelson]  “I was a little bummed when we left Hell's Half Acre. I liked the cozy feel this island provided and hoped we were moving to something as good or better. But I learned that each island holds something new and different for us; where one aspect of an island may not be as good as the last, another aspect exceeds the last. It all balances.

The thing I liked about Wheat Island was that except for the last day we never needed to cook under the circus fly. Doug set up his kitchen out on the rocks and looked so at home there that you'd swear he's been living here for years. After dinner, Doug’s kitchen would transform into our living room, planetarium and bar all wrapped into one. We could only get a few radio stations on Wheat but we seemed to have found the perfect one to complement our surroundings and enhance our post dinner hypnotic state.”

 

[John]  The rough crossing was my favorite paddle of the trip. I had spent the morning carefully packing my boat, she was balanced well, and I didn't have 40lbs of water to bog me down. The Chatham danced across that rough water, well maybe not danced, but it was pretty sweet. She stayed where I put her, and just kinda snaked her way through the waves, beautiful rough water boat she is. Shotgunning the two beers Nelson had dropped while loading up the boats earlier probably hadn't hurt either...

We arrived on the island, Doug beaming, producing his bottle and his proclamation "John! we've reached another island, time for a drink!" How could I argue with that??”

 

[Steven]  “This was my favorite of the two island campsites.  The tiny meadow that Nelson, John, and I pitched our tents on looked like something out of an REI catalog (all respect due to LL Bean and EMS … but, we DID have two REI employees in our crew).  From this spot we could see across to Burnt and Pell Islands , and had a great view of the sunset.”


 

THURSDAY ->

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